Snes game save batteries

[Flake]

Have you ever done Super Metroid, Hobie? I know you fixed a lot of my old GB games for me, including Metroid II.

[Hobie-wan]

Have you ever done Super Metroid, Hobie? I know you fixed a lot of my old GB games for me, including Metroid II.

I haven't had to as mine is fine, but I have done other SNES carts like Chrono Trigger.

OP, if you have or get a voltmeter, check the voltage on points of the board away from where you soldered the battery, after checking the battery itself of course. I fixed someone else's solder job where the battery looked attached, but it actually wasn't making good contact.

[Snesgamer4ever]

***update*** Checked the board and battery, board is getting max power....so SRAM next?? Never replaced one of those....

[Snesgamer4ever]

Honestly hobie, replacing the battery is one thing i know how to do, but anything other than that i am clueless. Maybe i just have to find a reputable place/person to troubleshoot and/or replace the SRAM...just bummed.

[Hobie-wan]

Wasn't trying to insult your soldering job. Just looks a little lumpy in that picture on the one pin, but could be a reflection.

The one I fixed for someone else was a really bad soldering job, but it still looked like it should have been connected.

[Ziggy]

Wasn't trying to insult your soldering job. Just looks a little lumpy in that picture on the one pin, but could be a reflection.

The one I fixed for someone else was a really bad soldering job, but it still looked like it should have been connected.

Yes, I agree. I solder as part of a professional, and even more frequently as a hobby. I can't tell you how many times a solder joint looks good enough but is in fact not.

The pic you posted, the battery terminal solder joints do look a little lumpy. Although it's kinda hard to tell in that pic since the camera flash or light source has glared the picture there. If they are lumpy, I would suggest applying some flux and reheating the joint.

And also, yeah, I don't mean to be insulting. Just wanna help. And on the subject, it's impossible for us to know how much you know about such things. If I explain something in detail, I don't mean to be condescending.

***update*** Checked the board and battery, board is getting max power....so SRAM next?? Never replaced one of those....

You checked it with a multimeter? I know it can be a pain in the ass to upload pics, but would you mind uploading another pic and marking exactly what points on the PCB you tested? And also, what setting you had the meter on? I just don't want you to start looking into the SRAM while something small may have been over looked. Or even worse, replace the SRAM and then still not have it work because you would have wasted the time and money on the SRAM.

As for the SRAM, it's pretty easy if you know how to solder. If all things to do with the battery are ruled out, and saving is the only problem this cart has, then it's time to look into the SRAM (it would be the next suspect).

Before straight up replacing it, what I would do is first test that it is in fact bad. To do this, you'll want a second SNES cart that uses the same type of SRAM. If you don't have a way to back up SNES cart saves, then keep in mind that you're gonna lose the save on your test cart. So be sure to use a cart that you don't mind losing the save on. And also, be sure to use a cart that you're sure holds saves.

What you do is simple. Swap the SRAMs then test both carts. This will tell you everything. If the SRAM from the test cart works on the Metroid cart, and the Metroid SRAM doesn't work on the test cart, then you know the SRAM is in fact dead and needs to be replaced. It's a double positive. If the SRAM from the test cart doesn't work on the Metroid cart and the Metroid SRAM works on the test cart, then you know the SRAM isn't the problem and need to investigate other things.

What you'll need, if you don't have one already, is this: http://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Watt ... ering+iron

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062731

You could use a desolder braid to remove the SRAMs, but using a desoldering iron like the ones linked above will not only be faster, it'll be MUCH easier.

And of course, you'll have to be 100% confident in how you solder the SRAMs in order to trust the results you get.

If and when you determine the SRAM is bad, it might be tempting to leave the SRAM from the test cart (if it's a cart you don't particularly care about) in the Metroid cart and call it a day. I don't suggest doing this. You already did the leg work to find a burned out SRAM, they're easy and cheap enough (about $1.50 brand new from a supplier) to replace, and a brand new one will last that much longer than a used one from a ~20 year old game.

[Snesgamer4ever]

No i was not at all meaning that you were being condescending, i appreciate whole heartedly your efforts to help me out. In fact, i did not even get your solder post until i had already sent the one about my skill level ha ha. No offense taken here, and i appreciate your help on this subject as you seem to know this area beyond my capacity. I am going
To try and clean up my solder job and take it from there Thanks again for the help, hope i can figure this out! lack

[Snesgamer4ever]

And the other factor is that i have not soldered since like 8th grade...17 years ago ha ha.....needless to say it could all be my fault so i will double my efforts and try again this evening

[Ziggy]

Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

I think I can speak for Hobie and say it's our favorite how-to video for soldering. At least, the basics. It clearly explains the principles of soldering in a way that's easy to understand and easy to remember.

For your solder joints, here's what I would do: First, determine if there's enough (or too much, but it didn't look so from your pic) solder there. There should be enough solder to completely wrap around each leg. If there is too little, add more solder. If there's enough solder, skip that and just touch up the joint with flux. Apply some flux to the joint (if you add more than enough, that's fine - you can clean up excess flux with alcohol when you're done) then heat the joint with the solder iron until the entire joint melts and you see the flux boiling. When you take the iron away, you should have a perfectly shiny joint.

If you don't have any flux on hand, Radio Shack (I'm assuming you're in the USA btw) carries flux, but only a wax type (they call it paste but it's more like wax). It's perfectly fine, just a pain in the ass to apply compared to a liquid or paste flux. They have liquid flux "pens" on their website, but I've never noticed it in store before.

[Snesgamer4ever]

Thank you both for your help...i tried again to solder the battery in, and still no save. Although, my solder i am afraid is getting worse each time and am really scared i will damage/have damaged the cart. Understanding this is highly unusual and knowing that you guys probably lead busy lives, this request is my last gasp at fixing this cart. Would either of you be interested in physically helping me get this game fixed? Of course i would pay shipping both ways, compensate for time/supplies etc... I just can't wrap my head around nor have the skills to fix this. No pressure by any means and i thank you for your efforts in explaining in GREAT detail the steps to help me try this on my own.