Best way to resurface CD's at home?

[newt42]

I looked around and found several different ways to get the job done. Could anyone with experience suggest their favorite way to resurface your own CD's? I'd much rather do it on my own instead of paying 4 bucks a piece to get them done at a store.

I've heard of people using Basso and paper towels, people using rubbing alcohol (which I'm a bit worried about.) I also tried using Windex a long time ago... Did not do me any good at all... Don't do it.

[CRTGAMER]

Mentioned this on another post. Automotive Convertible Top Rear Window Polish.
I have very good luck going this route on the read side. Hand buff in, let dry, then wipe off.
Keep in mind fragile side of discs are the label side. Read side has good layer of clear plastic.



Here a link using Plastic Polish on a Laser Disc, same as a CD and DVD disc.
http://www.instructables.com/id/how_to_ ... ser_discs/

[17DaysOlderThanNES]

the short answer: don't do it.

Nothing you can do at home will come close to a professional buffer. My best advice is to either try a few different places around town (game stores, DVD rental places, etc., assuming you live in a big city) to find the lowest price and/or ask if they'll give you a bulk discount (mom n pops probably will), or look around online to see if there's a place you can mail them and have them resurfaced at a bulk rate (anyplace that has an automated resurfacer has a very minimal per-disc resurfacing fee).

Trust me, all home resurfacing techniques are junk.

Keep in mind fragile side of discs are the label side. Read side has good layer of clear plastic.

Not true. While the bottom layer does have a thicker layer of plastic, scratches have to be deep enough to actually damage the acrylic layer to cause read errors (see picture below) whereas even shallow scratches to the data side can sometimes cause read errors. Also, putting discs data-side down makes it susceptible to dust/dirt/hair/food/etc. which can not only block sections of data, but also possibly even scratch or otherwise damage the laser and drive assembly. So, basically, the best method is to place them label side down and be careful not to step on them or do anything else to make deep scratches that can penetrate the acrylic layer. I used to get into arguments about this all the time with my co-workers when I did console repair at Play N Trade. At one point they were so convinced that any scratches to the label meant it wouldn't work that they started selling games with label scratches as "coasters" for 50¢, to which I promptly responded to by buying all of the 50¢ games I was interested in, resurfacing the data side myself (with a professional resurfacer), and made them look stupid for claiming the game wouldn't work.



*keep in mind the drawing is not to scale and the thickness of the bottom compared to the top layer is heavily mis-proportioned.

[CRTGAMER]

the short answer: don't do it.

Nothing you can do at home will come close to a professional buffer. My best advice is to either try a few different places around town (game stores, DVD rental places, etc., assuming you live in a big city) to find the lowest price and/or ask if they'll give you a bulk discount (mom n pops probably will), or look around online to see if there's a place you can mail them and have them resurfaced at a bulk rate (anyplace that has an automated resurfacer has a very minimal per-disc resurfacing fee).

Trust me, all home resurfacing techniques are junk.

Never a problem for me.

I avoid the commercial polishers at the Rental Stores/Game Stores unless there are really deep bad scratches and is a last desperation. Too much material being removed. As other members pointed out, on other posts, their discs have been ruined that way. The store associate has to be careful on the different grit phases of polish. Length of time of motor etching your rare disc is critical, high risk of permanent damage. Heat friction doesn't help either, especially when you see how some workers side track helping other customers. No thanks.

The Plastic Polish I use, I simply HAND rub the read side in from edge to middle and back. You then let dry and then wipe off. This stuff will take scratches out of a Convertible rear plastic window, so can easily handle small scratches on a game disc.

[CRTGAMER]

Keep in mind fragile side of discs are the label side. Read side has good layer of clear plastic.

Not true. While the bottom layer does have a thicker layer of plastic, scratches have to be deep enough to actually damage the acrylic layer to cause read errors (see picture below) whereas even shallow scratches to the data side can sometimes cause read errors. Also, putting discs data-side down makes it susceptible to dust/dirt/hair/food/etc. which can not only block sections of data, but also possibly even scratch or otherwise damage the laser and drive assembly. So, basically, the best method is to place them label side down and be careful not to step on them or do anything else to make deep scratches that can penetrate the acrylic layer. I used to get into arguments about this all the time with my co-workers when I did console repair at Play N Trade. At one point they were so convinced that any scratches to the label meant it wouldn't work that they started selling games with label scratches as "coasters" for 50¢, to which I promptly responded to by buying all of the 50¢ games I was interested in, resurfacing the data side myself (with a professional resurfacer), and made them look stupid for claiming the game wouldn't work.

Jeeze who is this guy, do you want to argue and try to build yourself up while claiming everyone else doesn't have a clue what's going on?
I don't get it. Contributions means that, contribute but don't chop up fellow members.

Your own drawing even shows the reflective layer has a thick layer of plastic on the read side. I don't even need a drawing but can see the game disc with my own eyes on which side has more protection. The label side is just that, a little paint, that can easily be scratched through to critical reflective layer. If we are talking about Laser discs which are two haves glued together, then both sides have clear plastic not paint with equal solid protection. You then run into Laser Disc Rot issues through coolant embeded in the glue, but thats another story.

[hailrazer]

I have been in the Automobile Industry for 18 years. I have used high speed buffers for 18 years.

Since I started buying cd's and dvd's I started experimenting with buffing Cd's and Dvd's.
I found it is simple to do and ver effective.

Basically this is what a commercial re-surfacer is, a high speed buffer.

Here's what I do.
First I have a high speed buffer (not orbital) , with a brand new wool pad.

I lay the buffer upside down and set it at medium rpm's. I then lock it on.
I have my wife/child hold it.
I hold the cd firmly with both hands with 1/4 of the cd facing out.
I lay the cd down on the fast turning pad and put a little pressure on it.
I rotate the cd 1/8 of the cd and do it again.
Re-peat till the cd is done.
Check the cd if it still has any scratches re-peat on that area.

Be sure to firmly hold the cd or it will fly out of your hand which is bad.

Never had a cd it didn't work on unless the label side was scratched or the scratch was HORRIBLY deep.

I keep saying I will do a video of this , hmmm may do that tomorrow.

[17DaysOlderThanNES]

Never a problem for me.

I avoid the commercial polishers at the Rental Stores/Game Stores unless there are really deep bad scratches and is a last desperation. Too much material being removed. As other members pointed out, on other posts, their discs have been ruined that way. The store associate has to be careful on the different grit phases of polish. Length of time of motor etching your rare disc is critical, high risk of permanent damage. Heat friction doesn't help either, especially when you see how some workers side track helping other customers. No thanks.

The Plastic Polish I use, I simply HAND rub in from edge to middle and back. You then let dry and then wipe off. This stuff will take scratches out of a Convertible rear plastic window so can easily handle small scratches on a game disc.

So because certain employees at hole-in-the-wall stores don't know how to work a resurfacer, all commercial resurfaces are bad? I guess I should never have my car worked on by a mechanic because the jiffy lube down the street does a crap job, huh? If the people at a store do a bad job, don't go there, find a place that actually cares and knows what they're doing. More importantly, go when they aren't alot of people in the store (late at night if they're open till 9 or 10, right before school gets out, etc., just not at lunchtime, 5-6, or 7-8) so they don't feel rushed.

A standard resurface barely removes any material at all, it certainly won't ruin your disc if done properly. Having resurfaced dozens of games myself using a professional resurfacer, I feel qualified to speak on the matter. When in doubt, assuming they are using this resurfacer (AFAIK all Play N Trades use this resurfacer, at least all I've been to):



http://www.jfjdiscrepair.com/aboutproduct.htm

When the employee puts the disc on that resurfacer, ask them to do 10 seconds of coarse sanding, 10 seconds of fine sanding, 2 minutes of #2 liquid, and 2 minutes of #1 liquid. When it's done, if it doesn't work, you have achieved world record amounts of negligent damage to your disc. I believe every single game I've resurfaced with that method has worked unless it was cracked (and I didn't notice before resurfacing) or had unbelievably deep scratches (possibly from an animal chewing on it in most cases).

Jeeze who is this guy, do you want to argue and build yourself up while claiming everyone else doesn't have a clue what's going on. I don't get it. Contributions means that, contribute but don't chop up fellow members.

Your own drawing even shows the reflective layer has a thick layer of plastic on the read side. I don't even need a drawing but can see the game disc with my own eyes on which side has more protection. The label side is just that, a little paint and clear coat covering that can easily be scratched through critical reflective layer. If we are talking about Laser discs which are two haves glued together, then both sides have clear plastic not paint equal protection. You then run into Laser Disc Rot issues through coolant embeded in the glue, but thats another story.

"my own drawing" is from how stuff works. It gets across the assembly layers, but AS I STATED heavily mis-proportions the actual thickness of the layers. IT IS NOT TO SCALE. It doesn't matter if the label side is thinner: A) you shouldn't do anything to cause deep enough scratches to damage the label side under normal use. Keep your crap in your case unless you're just setting it down for a second. Placing a disc label side down on a table for 5 seconds won't ruin your disc, but putting it for that same 5 seconds data side down could get all sorts of dust/dirt on the important side that could cause read errors. B) a scratch deep enough to go through the acrylic layer would probably also be deep enough to permanently ruin the data side of the disc. Sometimes, if the scratch is deep enough, no matter how many times you resurface the CD is boned. DVDs are especially resilient on the label side because the top layer is thicker. Bottom line: you can skid a CD (without stepping on it/applying heavy pressure) along the floor all day on the label side and it'll work fine. Do that to the data side and you'll be lucky if it passes the boot screen without a mild resurface. Your mild polish might work for cosmetic scratches, but for scratches severe enough to cause read errors, you need a professional buffer to do it right. For basic dirt, a lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol work just fine.

[17DaysOlderThanNES]

I have been in the Automobile Industry for 18 years. I have used high speed buffers for 18 years.

Since I started buying cd's and dvd's I started experimenting with buffing Cd's and Dvd's.
I found it is simple to do and ver effective.

Basically this is what a commercial re-surfacer is, a high speed buffer.

Here's what I do.
First I have a high speed buffer (not orbital) , with a brand new wool pad.

I lay the buffer upside down and set it at medium rpm's. I then lock it on.
I have my wife/child hold it.
I hold the cd firmly with both hands with 1/4 of the cd facing out.
I lay the cd down on the fast turning pad and put a little pressure on it.
I rotate the cd 1/8 of the cd and do it again.
Re-peat till the cd is done.
Check the cd if it still has any scratches re-peat on that area.

Be sure to firmly hold the cd or it will fly out of your hand which is bad.

Never had a cd it didn't work on unless the label side was scratched or the scratch was HORRIBLY deep.

I keep saying I will do a video of this , hmmm may do that tomorrow.

Maybe I'm not clear on what kind of buffer you're talking about, but that sounds like a good way to lose a finger. I don't think a $4 resurface is worth risking a digit and months of physical therapy.

[hailrazer]

Maybe I'm not clear on what kind of buffer you're talking about, but that sounds like a good way to lose a finger. I don't think a $4 resurface is worth risking a digit and months of physical therapy.

And that is the typical response.
Almost the same response I get with an open disc drive spinning. "oh noes you can lose a finger" . Umm no you can't.

And no you can't lose a finger and you can set your hand on it for quite a while without it even getting hot.

Seriously I should do a video

[CRTGAMER]

Maybe I'm not clear on what kind of buffer you're talking about, but that sounds like a good way to lose a finger. I don't think a $4 resurface is worth risking a digit and months of physical therapy.

And that is the typical response.
Almost the same response I get with an open disc drive spinning. "oh noes you can lose a finger" . Umm no you can't.

And no you can't lose a finger and you can set your hand on it for quite a while without it even getting hot.

Seriously I should do a video

Some people think they are experts and don't know the difference between a car buffer and a hand grinder.