PS3 Fat vs Slim - Horizontal vs Vertical YLOD

Gaming on the Playstation and Xbox Platforms
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CRTGAMER
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by CRTGAMER »

gtmtnbiker wrote:No, having a smaller extension cord is not the reason why your PS3 YLOD. A power supply on a modern electronic device like the PS3 is designed to handle different input AC voltages and convert it to DC. Plugging another device like the 360 will have no effect on the PS3 and your TV.

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Take into account everything pulling from one circuit breaker. Multiple outlets and lighting all pulling power, usually from more then one room. With the HDTV sucking power already, and the 360 pulling 203 watts, it just makes sense to shutdown the 360 before starting up the PS3. Your earlier mention of a warm extension cord points to a problem. Too much resistance in that cord causing spikes and surges, not good for electronics or the fan and drive motors. Even if your point has merit, no reason to guesstimate risk it, a twenty dollar heavy duty cord is a good investment.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by Hobie-wan »

CRTGAMER wrote:Too much resistance in that cord causing spikes and surges


Resistance doesn't cause spikes or surges unless they are a really huge load and are being plugged/unplugged or being turned on and off over and over. A large resistance just wastes power by turning it into heat. That's why space heaters and hair dryers use so much power, the heating element is a huge resistor converting the power into heat.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by CRTGAMER »

I am having a tough go getting a point across. Okay dead horse, everyones got their opinion, maybe just agree to disagree?

I'll duck this argument, YMOD - Yellow Mask Of Duck. :D
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by gtmtnbiker »

I think we're all trying to help you understand because there's some incorrect information being presented as facts in this thread.

The impression that I'm getting is that you seem to indicate the cause of your PS3 YLOD or your TV RLOD is coming from one of these factors:

1. Undersized extension cord
2. Too many things on the same circuit
3. Using an xbox 360 on the same circuit.

Sorry but this is all wrong.

If you want a beefier cord to handle more power without getting too warm, that's ok but it's not going to prevent your electronic devices from failing. Excess heat (from an undersized cord) is only a problem if it's in an enclosed space where it's not able to dissipate quickly enough (e.g, a wiring running through a hole in a plate).

I have an understanding of this stuff because of my background in Electrical & Computer Engineering.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by Hobie-wan »

gtmtnbiker wrote:If you want a beefier cord to handle more power without getting too warm, that's ok but it's not going to prevent your electronic devices from failing. Excess heat (from an undersized cord) is only a problem if it's in an enclosed space where it's not able to dissipate quickly enough (e.g, a wiring running through a hole in a plate).


Indeed. I'd be more worried about cheap quality stuff like this being plugged into the same circuit as your TV and other consoles.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by korn16ftl3 »

never had a YLOD issue with my moter storm bundle 80GB but the 80GB dosent have the built in EE either and wow some games like GT4 and MGS3 when you fight the flame thrower guy just eas ass on that model hard core on a side note seen this the other day

http://www.killerbug.net/Nichibotsu/The ... lowing.pdf
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by Hobie-wan »

korn16ftl3 wrote:on a side note seen this the other day

http://www.killerbug.net/Nichibotsu/The ... lowing.pdf


The only way to truly 'reflow' the solder is with an expensive BGA station. The Lead free solder used in electronics these days melts at about 210-215 degrees. Trying to get the bottom of the chip hot enough with a heat gun on the top without cooking something in the chip or around your work area isn't very likely.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by korn16ftl3 »

Hobie-wan wrote:
korn16ftl3 wrote:on a side note seen this the other day

http://www.killerbug.net/Nichibotsu/The ... lowing.pdf


The only way to truly 'reflow' the solder is with an expensive BGA station. The Lead free solder used in electronics these days melts at about 210-215 degrees. Trying to get the bottom of the chip hot enough with a heat gun on the top without cooking something in the chip or around your work area isn't very likely.


i didnt read the PDF ya i know ppl bitch bout all the 360 quick fix's also but i do em and things seem to work out just fine for me than again there is no X-clamp to replace on the chips that cause the YLOD either...i have thought about building my own re-work station from a griddle and what not and/or buying one the problem is this gen is close to over and would it pay for itself in such short notice
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