My PS2 (phat) stopped working. It boots but there is no sound or picture. I have tried different display cords (multiple different components and composite ones) so the cord is not the issue it's the port itself. The only thing I can find when googling is having the display setting wrong, but that is not the issue. I get no picture and no sound - the CRT screen does flash when the unit is turned on or off.
Any suggestions? I did try to reflow the main solder points for the display port, and that did nothing, so any help would be appreciated since I can not seem to find anything on the internet similar to this.
Update I did find a suggestion to check the fuses to see if one was blown. Has anyone done this before?
PS2 Display Port Help
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SpaceBooger
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Re: PS2 Display Port Help
SpaceBooger wrote:It boots but there is no sound or picture.
How do you know the console is booting if there is no sound or picture? Disc drive activity or something? Just because the screen flashes when you power on/off doesn't mean the console is actually functioning correctly.
SpaceBooger wrote:Update I did find a suggestion to check the fuses to see if one was blown. Has anyone done this before?
No, but I did find this...
https://www.ps2-home.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2779
Apparently the PS2 has many SMD fuses. And it's common enough for one or more of them to blow that someone put together that map for various revisions. So I guess it would be worth checking.
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SpaceBooger
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Re: PS2 Display Port Help
I guess I do not know if it boots... The lights fans and disc drive all work as intended. So I don't know if it does boot, but I can hear the disc in it spinning if booted with a disc already in it.
I did come across that fuse chart and even if I did find the fuse I do not have easy access to new ones or know if my soldering skill is up to task, but that may be the next step.
I did come across that fuse chart and even if I did find the fuse I do not have easy access to new ones or know if my soldering skill is up to task, but that may be the next step.
Re: PS2 Display Port Help
I mean, it could be that the MechaCon is working, so the disc drive spins up as it should. But something else has failed, like the video encoder. Or a fuse.
As for the fuses, you could try practicing on junk electronics. Chip components like that are easy to remove with a soldering iron, if you have the space. Otherwise you would need a hot air station, which can be cheap these days. But I'm thinking since they're fuses, you might not have to remove one that's blown. Just stack a new fuse on top of the old one. That would make the soldering work a lot easier.
edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJreVs5OZDc
Just to show you how easy it really is to solder chip components like that. The process would be more or less the same if you were to stack a new fuse on top of a blown one. Only that video shows using a tinned component to tack it in position. I like to tin the iron tip, so more solder is applied when you tack one side. If your tack side isn't strong enough, when you solder the other side it can "tombstone" which is so frustratingly annoying.
another edit: Oh, I forgot to mention. If you're in the USA, then you can get the parts from DigiKey or Mouser. The shipping will end up being more than the parts cost, but with the weight of some fuses you will be able to get USPS First Class Mail as the cheapest option. It still sucks having to pay like $5-7 for shipping when the parts only cost a few bucks, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Third edit: And here's a video on removing chip caps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JM4oCpWnjU
From the pics of the fuse map, it looks like some fuses are packed in tight with other components. So you would have the space needed to get at the side of the chip with the iron like that. That's when you would need hot air. But a word of caution when using hot air: If components are packed tightly together, you can easily blow small chip caps/resistors/fuses off the board using hot air. You would want to use low air flow and/or putting shielding around the component you're trying to remove to isolate it.
As for the fuses, you could try practicing on junk electronics. Chip components like that are easy to remove with a soldering iron, if you have the space. Otherwise you would need a hot air station, which can be cheap these days. But I'm thinking since they're fuses, you might not have to remove one that's blown. Just stack a new fuse on top of the old one. That would make the soldering work a lot easier.
edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJreVs5OZDc
Just to show you how easy it really is to solder chip components like that. The process would be more or less the same if you were to stack a new fuse on top of a blown one. Only that video shows using a tinned component to tack it in position. I like to tin the iron tip, so more solder is applied when you tack one side. If your tack side isn't strong enough, when you solder the other side it can "tombstone" which is so frustratingly annoying.
another edit: Oh, I forgot to mention. If you're in the USA, then you can get the parts from DigiKey or Mouser. The shipping will end up being more than the parts cost, but with the weight of some fuses you will be able to get USPS First Class Mail as the cheapest option. It still sucks having to pay like $5-7 for shipping when the parts only cost a few bucks, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Third edit: And here's a video on removing chip caps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JM4oCpWnjU
From the pics of the fuse map, it looks like some fuses are packed in tight with other components. So you would have the space needed to get at the side of the chip with the iron like that. That's when you would need hot air. But a word of caution when using hot air: If components are packed tightly together, you can easily blow small chip caps/resistors/fuses off the board using hot air. You would want to use low air flow and/or putting shielding around the component you're trying to remove to isolate it.