Should I sell RGB cables in the Racketboy Store

[YoshiEgg25]

Who the hell thought it was a good idea to use different voltages/amperes in Europe anyway?

[Mod_Man_Extreme]

Back in the day each country had to build their own competing electrical systems from scratch. It's all honestly quite interesting of a read.

Heck we almost had all DC power here in the US until there was a public showing of how direct DC could instantly kill you almost no matter what. AC passing through your body is relatively harmless as long as you're grounded and is what lets you hold a light bulb and have it light up when holding an an electroscope at science shows.

[CRTGAMER]

I thought it was the other way around. Thomas Edison was pushing DC power and battled Westinghouse AC system. Edison staged events to the public by filming the electrocuting of an elephant and backing design of an AC electric chair to prove that direct current was safer. AC won because it was cheaper to produce.

[YoshiEgg25]

AC is definitely safer. If you touch a plug in the wall with DC, you get frozen there and can't move while every cell in your body is zapped of life. AC throws you off the current, which I'm (unfortunately) familiar with.

[Mod_Man_Extreme]

AC is definitely safer. If you touch a plug in the wall with DC, you get frozen there and can't move while every cell in your body is zapped of life. AC throws you off the current, which I'm (unfortunately) familiar with.

This.

I've touched enough bare PSU's inside of systems that I stupidly forgot to unplug over the years to absolutely hate DC at times.

[jeffro11]

DC voltages under 50V are not considered dangerous. Go out to your car and touch the leads on your battery. Hell, lick them. You wont feel anything. The DC voltages in systems range from 3-12 volts. You won't get a shock from this.

You know the car battery torture techniques you see in movies? Yeah, that doesn't work. 12V don't do shit.

<---- Electrician

[theclaw]

Also, SCART cables are tough to get in a true RGB version. Japanese RGB cables are only designed to carry RGB and RGB alone. The SCART/Euro RGB cables can carry either RGB, Composite or S-Video signals (think HDMI) are often modified to carry only composite instead to be sold for cheaper. Basically they rig it to carry the cheapest signal and be manufactured in the most cost-cut way leading to quality control issues and difficulty finding true RGB SCART cables.

Aren't Japanese RGB cables/adapters/etc difficult to find? I don't think I've heard of a basic selector box or component converter for them, as are readily available with SCART. Let alone seen any.

XRGB type boxes are major overkill for what I'd want to do. Way too many advanded features and connectors I honestly wouldn't have use for.

[Mod_Man_Extreme]

Also, SCART cables are tough to get in a true RGB version. Japanese RGB cables are only designed to carry RGB and RGB alone. The SCART/Euro RGB cables can carry either RGB, Composite or S-Video signals (think HDMI) are often modified to carry only composite instead to be sold for cheaper. Basically they rig it to carry the cheapest signal and be manufactured in the most cost-cut way leading to quality control issues and difficulty finding true RGB SCART cables.

Aren't Japanese RGB cables/adapters/etc difficult to find? I don't think I've heard of a basic selector box or component converter for them, as are readily available with SCART. Let alone seen any.

XRGB type boxes are major overkill for what I'd want to do. Way too many advanded features and connectors I honestly wouldn't have use for.

Japanese cables are easy as heck to find. Just got to grab-em from a Japanese supplier and voila.

Also, there are component converters, but not as many as SCART because in Japan the component standard doesn't technically exist.

They use a consolidated connector called a D-Terminal, it looks like this:



It's basically the component video cable in one single connector.

Also, if X-RGB boxes may be overkill for what you want to do then you're gonna want to ask yourself why you want to even use RGB. Yes you can convert it to component, but it most likely won't work with an HDTV or will give you an off center image with a SDTV CRT.

Regardless of what you want to do RGB anything will cost you money.

Cable - $5-$20. Depending on quality of build and picture quality.

RGB to Component box - $50-$70. Plus, an extra $20-$30 for the proper US AC Adapter as it will come with only a Euro one you can't use.

Modification to your system - $50-$90. RGB cables don't output audio most of the time so the leaves you having to modify them in some way to get the sound if your device doesn't have a separate audio output.

So in total you're going to spend - $125-$210 on an RGB to component setup. This is regardess of Japanese RGB or European SCART standard. RGB isn't cheap that's why RF, Composite, S-Video and Component were introduced to make it cost effective for consumers.

Compare this to the way I'd use it:

RGB cables for various systems - $5-$20

RGB/SCART switch box - $10-20 (You can use either European or Japanese switchboxes for each other as the boxes themselves contain no electronics or circuitry)

Used X-RGB - $150-$300 This all depends on the model you want and condition/completeness.

Or

New X-RGB Flame Meister Scheduled to drop early next year - $200-$250 (tentative price, and could go lower)

So yeah, I'll spend a bit more, but the end result is definitely worth it.

While you'll get a Standard Definition signal on your TV in pseudo-component I'll get a flawlessly upconverted purely RGB signal on my HDTV to enjoy all my consoles with crystal clear image quality for years to come.

I still game retro on an SDTV CRT (Sony Trinitron baby!) But, it's not getting any younger and sooner than later even component connections will begin to disappear from HDTV's.

[Niode]

DC voltages under 50V are not considered dangerous. Go out to your car and touch the leads on your battery. Hell, lick them. You wont feel anything. The DC voltages in systems range from 3-12 volts. You won't get a shock from this.

You know the car battery torture techniques you see in movies? Yeah, that doesn't work. 12V don't do shit.

<---- Electrician

Couldn't have said it better myself.

<---- somebody who actually has a clue.

[theclaw]

It's alright. I should've been more clear. By overkill I didn't mean price. I was talking about complexity. If all other conditions are right, all I'd need is an RGB input and component output as far as the video conversion itself goes. That's just two connectors. Audio and selector boxes are separate issues to deal with.

Of course yeah being off center could happen. Won't know with the CRT I plan to use until it's attempted.