As mentioned, you can get a cheap scaler to change HD/SVGA output from most any PC mode to 640x480 interlaced for display on a SD display. Scalers are available that accept VGA (DB15), HDMI, DVI and others and scale/convert the signal at most any HD/SVGA video mode to RGB (SCART or BNC), YPbPr-Component (RCA), S-Video, or Composite output (usually with a switch for PAL/NTSC).
I've seen many available for dirt cheap so I own a lot of those converter/scalers. They mostly all work fine and were very cheap, but the quality of the output is always sub-par. When using a CRT - especially for emulation - I always want to have the output coming out @ 240P, not 480I. Otherwise you might as well install an old ATI Video Card that already does S-Video output. That was also mentioned, and for a quick-and-dirty solution, you're better off that way instead of using any of those scalers - the output at least gives you better control of the 480I flicker, and some adjustment of your under/overscan to fit your display. ATI's drivers are actually really good in that respect, so if you are okay with everything @640x480 it's probably your best bet. Since those video cards are from around 1996-2003 there's a huge surplus of them from recyclers - I know many people who have a pile in a drawer and they're all over ebay.
The method I've used isn't $400, tho it's still a little pricey with the shipping from the UK. The result is truly perfect IMO and well worth the investment over a $400 XRGB and a big-screen Plasma. It will work on any SD television that has component input. Every emulated game will output at exactly the correct resolution as the hardware&software makes hundreds of video modes available so the emulators will not have to scale the picture at all. Any CRT that's commercially available and can show a NES on it's screen will also be compatible with this solution if it has component input. I'm pretty sure you could get a cheap transcoder to convert Component into less-good signals and still maintain full compatibility tho I have never looked into it.
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In the PC, you can use a dedicated 15Khz Video card (
ArcadeVGA), or one of many (cheap)
Soft15Khz or
CRT_EmuDriver compatible video cards.
In my case I used an ancient ATI Radeon 7000 from my long-dead 486 DX2 66Mhz along with CRT-EmuDriver with great success.
If you go with ArcadeVGA, some of the slightly-higher progressive resolutions that wouldn't normally display on a SD CRT have been hacked to output properly (including PC startup Bios text modes and others).
If you use Soft15Khz or CRT_EmuDriver, until you get into windows itself the startup and windows boot logo will roll over the screen until you get to your desktop (480i mode).
At this point the video signal coming from the PC is still RGB just lower speed than most LCD displays can display, and will not show up properly on a standard television. It would work just fine on most CRT VGA Monitors or, with the right cable it'd work on a PVM monitor (VGA-BNC) or a SCART compatible PAL TV/Amiga Monitor (VGA-SCART).
In order to get it reliably working on any old NTSC TV I used this hardware in this order:
1: ATI Radeon 7000 (A lot of cards are compatible with these softwares lately, including onboard Intel now!)
2: Generic VGA Female-Female cable (came with an old VGA monitor you owned)
3:
Soft 15Khz Dongle (optional? - Supposedly feeds fake video card compatibility data to your SVGA monitor or vise - versa and says every screen mode will work with all hardware).
4:
Ultimate SCART Adapter (UMSA) (This is incredible and necessary - the jumper fixes the picture on some displays)
5: Generic Male-Male SCART RGB cable (Well shielded and fully wired - a short one from ebay?).
6:
Cypress CSY-2100 - SCART to Y-U-V Converter - Clone boxes are available, but are not very good. The Chinese cheap clone transcoder I bought didn't work.
7: Male-Male Component shielded video cable. (Go for thick ones - try local liquidation warehouse)
8: NTSC CRT Television's Component video input.
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The stuff from Arcadeforge (UMSA & Dongle) shipped to Lebanon KS (Center of USA) costs ~$59.48 USD
The CSY-2100 shipped to anywhere in USA is ~$127.00 USD
Cable(s) not available locally shipped free from china on Ebay might be $15?
So, if you have a PC and a SD TV that can do component you're looking at about $200 for video perfection with perfect scanlines without a console and the necessary cabling and scalers for seemingly the same result? Seems pretty good to me. Last night we played through AVSP Arcade and a couple of 2 player compo speed runs in Sonic 2 and the 36" display was stunning!
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This setup worked very well for me. Many other arrangements and a bag of incompatible parts did not work well. I have a large surplus of this kinda stuff to mess with and this was the cheapest solution for this project.
If you can get into your TV's service menu and adjust the overscan to have more visible display area (Vertical and Horizontal Width & Centering), you can save yourself a lot of trouble adjusting mode-lines in VMMaker so all the video modes fit better on your display without some being cut off.
While setting this up I was following some great guides and forum posts to tweak the video output to better fit the big screen Samsung display I used. I'll try to post the most relevant ones here shortly, but the arcade cabinet is still in the shop.
Some Pics of that cabinet (taken a little drunk so quality is low...):
The idea on this project was to do this without spending much money. Except for the joysticks and buttons this was all leftovers from another project, a free TV from the side of the road (seriously - it was rained on!), a free computer from a recent upgrade (my bro's old tower from 2003 that the kids used to watch Youtube on but couldn't play Minecraft), some spare cables and video hardware from my back closet. I still think if the hardware were bought new @ cost minus the wood, PC and TV it'd be under $300 US with shipping. As it is it's under $150 CAD because the rest is stuff from our garages.
I should mention that there's some adjustments necessary for most screen modes. Through the software provided in the packages you will need to adjust the width, height, vertical and horizontal centering for many of the screen modes. All the presets are good, but every display is different and the preset numbers are just guestimates or happy mediums. The technical side of the software to get everything perfect actually requires a calculator, notepad and studying multiple forum posts to begin to understand and change settings. It takes a few tries to get everything right but once the settings are locked in (saved) everything is awesome. if you stray too far from what your display can handle to get the weird ones centered or stretched too far it'll glitch up. There's a learning curve, but the results are totally worth it. That stuff is mostly only necessary for vertical MAME games anyway. All the consoles really only use about 7-10 video modes that are nearly perfect out of the box.
For this setup I'm now working on some custom mode-lines to allow 2 player single screen games to play split-screen using GroovyMAME's cocktail setting. This involves making custom mode-lines that weren't anticipated when making the drivers have all the necessary modes for every possible game. Very exciting stuff. I've screwed up and fixed lot of things building this machine (not expected to happen with general console emulation but I always try to push things too far) so if anyone reading this tries to run this setup and runs into problems I might have a simple fix.
Lightgun games? There are many really cheap wireless USB mouse solutions with accelerometers. The lightgun emulation usually includes crosshairs and DX.com has tons of those air mouse/keyboard combos with free shipping. With a $5 Bluetooth dongle you can use a wiimote too.
I do not know of any solution to make the gun/mouse sight line up with the onscreen crosshair (Real lightgun emulation not possible?).
Lag? If your PC is capable of at least running windows 98 - None.
For console games, the picture is better than what I've been able to get from my Framemeister and 60" Plasma (Aperture grille marks are present and *authentic* not some overlay) . I'm envious of my brother's new coffee table. He only installed 48 games - most from before he was born!