PS3 Fat vs Slim - Horizontal vs Vertical YLOD

Gaming on the Playstation and Xbox Platforms
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isiolia
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by isiolia »

CRTGAMER wrote:Since the Slim might run cooler since its smaller and less chips, maybe more reliable.


No "might" there. It does, and significantly so. Runs much quieter as a result. I'd expect it to be more reliable over time. The Slim is an entirely better machine for playing PS3 games and Blu-rays.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by CRTGAMER »

CRTGAMER wrote:Fat to Slim 99 Bucks
My Fat is untampered so I decided to go the Service Center Repair route. Just got off the phone with Sony Repair and discovered the upgrade exchange for a broken Fat PS3 to a Slim 120gb PS3 is now $99.00. I don't think broken Slims can get this same offer.

Received the Factory Refurbished PS3 slim a few days ago, its plugged directly into a fat appliance extension cord. The PS3 Slim and XBox 360 gets turned off before the other gets turned on to avoid too much amp draw. Even plugged into different outlets they are on the same circuit, better to play it safe.

Hopefully this one will last, I'll post if it does fail.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by gtmtnbiker »

CRTGAMER wrote: its plugged directly into a fat appliance extension cord. The PS3 Slim and XBox 360 gets turned off before the other gets turned on to avoid too much amp draw. Even plugged into different outlets they are on the same circuit, better to play it safe.


Too small sized extension cords or too many appliances are not going to have an effect on your PS3. Yes, the extension cord could get too warm and potentially start a fire or your breaker/fuse will trip because of too much amp draw.

It's more of a concern for tools that have motors where you don't want to have too much of a voltage drop.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by CRTGAMER »

gtmtnbiker wrote:
CRTGAMER wrote: its plugged directly into a fat appliance extension cord. The PS3 Slim and XBox 360 gets turned off before the other gets turned on to avoid too much amp draw. Even plugged into different outlets they are on the same circuit, better to play it safe.
Too small sized extension cords or too many appliances are not going to have an effect on your PS3. Yes, the extension cord could get too warm and potentially start a fire or your breaker/fuse will trip because of too much amp draw.

It's more of a concern for tools that have motors where you don't want to have too much of a voltage drop.

Take another look - Don't risk it
A twenty amp circuit breaker will not protect a ten amp extension cord. Don't forget surge amps when you turn on a component which is rated by continuous running not the higher needed surge amps. There are motors in a console, the drives and fans. The PCB is also sucking up some of the power which pulls from what is needed to spin up the motors.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by Hobie-wan »

CRTGAMER wrote:Take another look - Don't risk it
A twenty amp circuit breaker will not protect a ten amp extension cord. Don't forget surge amps when you turn on a component which is rated by continuous running not the higher needed surge amps. There are motors in a console, the drives and fans. The PCB is also sucking up some of the power which pulls from what is needed to spin up the motors.


Your circuit breaker for wall plugs per room (or maybe even rooms) is 15 Amps. If you turn on your TV, several game systems, and some lamps in one room, you probably aren't going to trip your breaker. If you then fire up a space heater and a hair dryer, then you might trip it. Yes it is better to be safe than sorry, but you don't need some monster cord unless you're running something with a heating element or high draw power tools.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by CRTGAMER »

Hobie-wan wrote:
CRTGAMER wrote:Take another look - Don't risk it
A twenty amp circuit breaker will not protect a ten amp extension cord. Don't forget surge amps when you turn on a component which is rated by continuous running not the higher needed surge amps. There are motors in a console, the drives and fans. The PCB is also sucking up some of the power which pulls from what is needed to spin up the motors.
Your circuit breaker for wall plugs per room (or maybe even rooms) is 15 Amps. If you turn on your TV, several game systems, and some lamps in one room, you probably aren't going to trip your breaker. If you then fire up a space heater and a hair dryer, then you might trip it. Yes it is better to be safe than sorry, but you don't need some monster cord unless you're running something with a heating element or high draw power tools.

Older Home
Some of my breakers are 20 amps. I'll stick with the fat appliance cord, worth the added insurance. Looking back over my thread with multiple PS3 fails, maybe this was my problem before. The last PS3 held the longest and strangely both the PS3 and my WEGA didn't die until the power hungry launch 360 came into my home.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by D.D.D. »

For those who have the slim can you check your cord? Is it a 7A or a 6A cord??
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by Hobie-wan »

D.D.D. wrote:For those who have the slim can you check your cord? Is it a 7A or a 6A cord??


18 guage wires rated for 105 C and 300 V. No wattage or amperage on mine.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by D.D.D. »

Hobie-wan wrote:
D.D.D. wrote:For those who have the slim can you check your cord? Is it a 7A or a 6A cord??


18 guage wires rated for 105 C and 300 V. No wattage or amperage on mine.


:? I gotta check my cord again when I get home. I do recall it says 7A 125V right on the plug that goes into the PS3 side but I think what you wrote is on the actual cord in larger white print.
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Re: PS3 Fat vs Slim and Tower vs Desktop YLOD durability

Post by gtmtnbiker »

CRTGAMER wrote:Take another look - Don't risk it
A twenty amp circuit breaker will not protect a ten amp extension cord. Don't forget surge amps when you turn on a component which is rated by continuous running not the higher needed surge amps. There are motors in a console, the drives and fans. The PCB is also sucking up some of the power which pulls from what is needed to spin up the motors.


As Hobie mentioned, you don't need a monster extension cord because the PS3 does not draw as much power like an electric motor or hair dryer. The amount of surge power needed upon startup is negligible as compared to a fridge or power tool.

CRTGAMER wrote:Older Home
Some of my breakers are 20 amps. I'll stick with the fat appliance cord, worth the added insurance. Looking back over my thread with multiple PS3 fails, maybe this was my problem before. The last PS3 held the longest and strangely both the PS3 and my WEGA didn't die until the power hungry launch 360 came into my home.


No, having a smaller extension cord is not the reason why your PS3 YLOD. A power supply on a modern electronic device like the PS3 is designed to handle different input AC voltages and convert it to DC. Plugging another device like the 360 will have no effect on the PS3 and your TV.
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