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Re: Audio buzzing issue with Framemeister - HALP!

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 1:23 am
by theclaw
C Sauce wrote:I'm confused, what does the mini-din switch do/how does it help my problem? Haven't heard of these before


Framemeister has just one RGB input. If damaged then it's gone.
A switch or selector moves as much natural wear and tear as possible, away from the Framemeister itself.

Re: Audio buzzing issue with Framemeister - HALP!

Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 4:17 am
by Anapan
Sounds like a shielding failure. One thing to avoid the problem without involving the Framemeister at all is to use a SCART audio breakout box. The only real value of the framemeister is the video - it is unparalleled in that respect. As long as it's video output is still functioning you're not in any monetary bind to keep everything going well. What sort of speakers are you running? $12 worth of splitters and patchcords could probably bypass the framemeister as an audio interference. You can get a SCART coupler with breakout RCA for really cheap.
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Opening it up, you could cut 2 wires to the output (pins 1 2 & 4, make sure the breakout is grounded to the outer sheath) and bypass the analog audio passthrough going to the Framemeister. This provides stereo isolated RCA outputs at line-level directly from the console. Easy, right? Just pass them to your speaker setup as RCA or 3.5mm headphone using dollar-store parts.

Re: Audio buzzing issue with Framemeister - HALP!

Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 2:47 pm
by Ziggy587
^ I'm pretty sure you can use the front audio RCA input on the Framemeister for RGB audio source. That way, if you don't have a separate audio system, you can still use the Framemeister when breaking out the audio.

C Sauce, you said you don't have any buzzing when using the composite input and that there was no effect when jiggling the mini-DIN plug, so the cable very well could be the issue. Even if it's not, and there's a problem with the mini-DIN input (like a busted solder lug for one of the audio pins or ground), breaking out the audio and using the separate audio input would still fix the problem for you.

It's very simple to do. Get an adapter like the one pictured above, any kind of SCART adapter that breaks out audio is good. The only "modding" that you'd have to do is cutting the L and R audio lines so they don't connect to the mini-DIN input. Then just run the audio into the composite input (I'm 90% sure you can get audio from here when using the RGB input).