Broken SNES Cart Questions

[Jagosaurus]

I have a Super Mario World SNES cart where the PCB on one side is roughly 1/4 inch "higher." I can also hear something inside the cart rattling around. I can use plyers to pull that side of the PCB pins down, but it will go right back "up" when you attempt to insert it in console.

I am assuming one of the plastic hangers/clips/tab inside the cart (part of plastic backing inside) that hold the PCB in place is broken/snapped. My first run in with this. Have you guys seen this before?

I unsuccessfully tried the pen melting trick (create a screw driver) a few times to get into the cart with no luck. I'm about to order a 3.8mm torx so I can crack it open. Good tool to have on hand any way.

If the snapped plastic tab is indeed the case, is my only fix to swap the back from a donor cart? I'll cannibalize a NBA Live 96 cart (back end) I have if needed. Will every PCB fit inside any cart, meaning are any carts molded different to house alternate PCBs?

Thanks for any input

[ElkinFencer10]

This might be an option if you're like me and hate cannibalizing games.

[Jagosaurus]

I tried searching for cheap existing broken games on ebay with no luck. Guess I should've tried repros. Appreciate the link man!

Any idea if they'll fit any PCB of any game? I'm assuming they're standardized. I need to compare some images inside of different carts (or open up several of mine when the custom torx arrives).

I have some OCD tendencies with collecting so I'll do the Frankenstein swapping in and out to have the official Nintendo back (from NBA 96) on the currently damaged SMW & place the repro back on NBA 96 cart.

Also, this is part buddy's childhood SNES games he gave to me. I want to save SMW as I played these actual games as a kid with him. Something awesome about that I want to preserve. I have an extra SMW cart I might sell/trade after as I don't need 2 but the priority is fixing and keeping his childhood carts working and next to my personal childhood NES games

[Jagosaurus]

Ok, so looking at that listing for the repro cart it is a snap on case that doesn't need screws. Not sure I could mix and match the backs/fronts with existing carts using the screws. I'm not really into repro labels (different topic there).

I could use the repro to still make NBA 96 PCB playable though and use the existing NBA 96 back on my SMW cart.

It gives me options versus having a random NBA 96 PCB in a box. Who knows, might still be able mix & match but doubt it.

[Anayo]

I had to do this lately with a cracked copy of Majora's Mask for the N64. I was able to open the proprietary screws by applying pressure on them with a pair of needle nose pliers. No need to buy one of those weird reverse-torx screw heads. I haven't ever done SNES cartridge surgery before, but it couldn't hurt to give it a shot and see.

[CRTGAMER]

Turn in your nerd badge until you obtain the Gamebit drivers! A good habit for any cart purchased; a pop open and pencil eraser cleaning of the contacts. Well, except for carts such as 2600 that might damage the label. Clean those by pushing in the dust guard.

You might be okay in saving the original cart shell, though you might have to glue in a rigged up support tab to keep the PCB locked in. This will allow you to retain the label on the cart and keeping the outside looking original. Before assembly, a good clean with the pencil eraser. Unlikely you would need to open the cart shell again.

I lost my gamebits somewhere on my madness desk and ordered a new set online. Found both 3.8mm and 4.5mm hardened steel black Gamebits along with a TriWing under ten bucks shipped. I prefer gamebits without a plastic handle to prevent accidental over tightening.

The Triwing came in a plastic pouch; cut the envelope edge and store gamebits with the triwing.

Tools 3.8mm + 4.5mm + Blue Triwing $9.95 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tools-3-8mm-4- ... 0572163265

[Jagosaurus]

Hmm, will at least attempt needle nose pliers before buying the 3.8mm torx. Thanks for the tip. Not sure why I didn't think of that! They make different sizes of needle nose. Hopefully mine are thin enough.

[Jagosaurus]

Well, tried 2 different sizes of needle nose with no luck. They were both a bit too large & would've damaged the cart plastic.

[Anayo]

Turn in your nerd badge until you obtain the Gamebit drivers!

*places nerd badge and nerd gun on CRTGAMER's desk, becomes nerd vigilante in the next scene*

[Tanooki]

Before or around when people used those types of pliers, some got sneaky and bought super cheapo Bic pens and would use a lighter to near liquefy the tip (without the ink pen in there obviously) and while very fluid smash it into the screw on the cart making their own ghetto bit. They don't work very many times, but should be enough to crack open a couple carts to do a shell swap.

Not having a replacement shell a couple years back I had got a multicart famicom style with a broken interior tab so the game would on one side shift much inside so it would never make contact. I got sneaky there. I found the piece and glued it back to the spot with ultra super gel (not glue as that runs wet) and also cut a piece of q-tip stick/stem to the same height and glued that in there too along side as reinforcing backing and it has lasted ever since.

Just something to consider, and from the outside, the game would look the same and not fly up inside there. Bracing existing damage after reattachment is workable as a solution.