Troubleshooting SNES Power Issue

[racketboy]

So my SNES doesn't turn on....
I've seen that back part could break commonly
https://www.lukiegames.com/Replacement- ... 21515.html

But how do I know if that's really the issue or not?

[marurun]

That part isn't expensive enough to worry about it, almost. That said, you could open up the SNES and use a multimeter to test continuity along that line.

[racketboy]

That part isn't expensive enough to worry about it, almost. That said, you could open up the SNES and use a multimeter to test continuity along that line.

I should probably get myself one of those -- this one seem ok to pick up?
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-MSR-R50 ... eter&psc=1

[Sarge]

Is it the power supply or the system itself that's the problem? I've had to replace a fuse in one to make it work again.

[marurun]

So... I really barely know how to use one, so you probably shouldn't take a recommendation from me

I own a soldering iron that I don't know how to use, too.

[bmoc]

Cold solder joints in the ac adapter are also common. It is usually the end that plugs into the SNES. Try wiggling that end of the cord to see if the SNES will turn on. If it powers up with some wiggling, you can cut open the plug and resolder it. It isn't terribly difficult.

[Ziggy]

Here's my suggestions for budget meters...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/_e ... ZMRRL1FSRO - I picked this up as a spare to keep upstairs (my more expensive meters on on the work bench in the basement) and it's been great. Auto ranging makes it easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NB85N0/_e ... ZMRRL1FSRO - My first multimeter, and I've used it quite a lot. It only does voltage and resistance, and it's not auto ranging, but that never stopped me. You can use one of the resistance settings to test continuity, you just wont get an audible beep (you have to look at the screen). What I really like about it is that it has a dedicated on/off switch, while most meters have you turn the mode selector switch all the way to one side for off.

A beginner would probably be better off with auto ranging, but it's hard to beat a $10 meter (without worrying if you're rolling the dice). To be honest, it almost doesn't matter what meter you get if this is your first. Digital meters are all gonna be accurate enough for what you'll be using it for. Your main goal is getting a brand that wont die in a few short months, and if you're happy with the way it looks. Cheaper and smaller meters will usually have shorter probe wires, so be aware of that. Extra features are sometimes useless. A back lit LCD is nice, but when will you ever be using this in the dark? Battery test settings are worthless, just use the DCV setting.

Long story short... I would suggest going with the INNOVA.






As for the problem with the SNES... Get a multimeter. The first thing you want to check is the power brick. Plug it into the wall (directly into a known working outlet). Touch the two probes to the barrel connector (the end that you would normally plug into the SNES). Generally, red is positive and black is negative, but in this case it really doesn't matter. Stick one probe inside the barrel (there's an inner pin that it'll have to touch). Touch the other probe to the outer sleeve. If you mixed up positive and negative, the only thing that'll happen is the readout on the meter will be a negative value instead of a positive one. No big deal.

Worth noting, any time you are working with live voltage you'll want to take certain precautions. In this case, unless there's any damage to the wire there's really not a risk of electrocuting yourself. But you'll want to make sure you don't fry the power brick. While it's plugged into the wall, be sure never to cross the positive and negative connections on the barrel jack (you can do this if you bridge the probes) as this will almost certainly fry it instantly.

So yeah, probe the barrel jack while it's plugged into the wall and see what you get. The voltage should match what is indicated on the back of the brick (I think SNES is 10v). More than likely you'll either get the full 10v or nothing at all (and it's OK if the reading is HIGHER than what's specified on the back of the brick). If you're not getting anything out of it, you'll have to check the wire for internal damage. But let's cross that bridge when we get there.

If the power brick tests OK, and there's no intermittent issues (jiggle the wire around a bit to be sure there isn't a problem there), then it's time to look at the SNES itself. You can check the power input socket for damage, and check that it has continuity to the motherboard. But the first thing I would check is the fuse. The SNES fuse seems to blow very easily. In fact, any time you're opening the SNES, turn the power switch ON (while unplugged from the power adapter) to drain any residual power. Anyway, you can check the fuse with the continuity setting on the multimeter. If it's dead, replace it.



There's probably a bunch of how-to videos on YouTube for replacing the SNES fuse.

I apologize if the above post isn't worded the best. I typed it up in a hurry. Normally I don't like doing that, but it was this or nothing!

[Ziggy]

Cold solder joints in the ac adapter are also common. It is usually the end that plugs into the SNES. Try wiggling that end of the cord to see if the SNES will turn on. If it powers up with some wiggling, you can cut open the plug and resolder it. It isn't terribly difficult.

Busted solder joints on power input jacks is very common, but I've never seen one on a SNES before. More likely to be a problem with the power adapter's wire, especially right at the strain relief for barrel jack. Like you said, you gotta give it the wiggle test. You can just splice on a new barrel jack, instead of hacking into the molded one.