Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

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SceptreJLRB
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Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by SceptreJLRB »

Hello everyone,

I am using a Japanese Model 1 Sega Saturn on PAL territory. The console power specifications indicate it works at 100V 15W 50/60Hz, so I am using a step-down voltage converter, from 220V to 110-120V 50W 60Hz (as indicated in product label), assuming the voltage difference would not make any difference due to electrical tolerance.

Everything seems to work fine. However, after about 30 minutes I get spontaneous in-game resetting, generally matching CD-loading, as if the system rapidly switched off and then on. From this point, these resets occur with a higher frequence.

I checked the power supply unit, but apparently it is OK, it has neither bad capacitors nor burnt components. Thinking the cause could be a reading problem, I recalibrated the laser using its POT, and even changed the laser pick-up. However, I'm still having these annoying resetting problem.

The question is: Which is the cause of this problem and how could it be solved? Has anybody suffer the same issue? Could it be in fact due to an overheat problem caused by the step-down converter I am using?

Thanks in advance for your attention and wise advice!

Cheers.
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flojocabron
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by flojocabron »

is it maybe the tab that goes down on the lid?

Maybe its mis-aligned or broken?

Saturns do reset when you open the lid.

Is your lid in the correct position? maybe it doesn't go down right or not pushing down on the little trigger on the motherboard?

Try that.
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SceptreJLRB
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by SceptreJLRB »

Hello, flojocabron,

Thanks for your answer and suggestions! In fact, the lid open/close microswitch was the first thing I checked. Everything is in order here, as resets also occurs when permanently activating this switch (tricking the console to permanently detect the lid as closed, in order to perform the swap trick).

The last thing I have tried was eliminating the 'death capacitor' on the PSU, but yet the problem still persists... :(
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s8n
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by s8n »

hi Sceptre , is your stepdown converter really hot while playing Saturn ?


its possible the converter is not supplying enough juice to the console even tho the specs line up
SceptreJLRB
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by SceptreJLRB »

Hi s8n!

Thanks for your suggestion! The step-down isn't so hot, i'd say it seems normal. In addition, I checked it with a multimeter and it provides 110V, which I think is widely tolerated by the console. I have also tried this step-down with another Saturn, in this case a Model 2A that consumes 12 W, with no problem at all.

My guess is that the problem is an issue with the PSU, so I am looking for one as a replacement. Any idea where to obtain it? (Current, at eBay, I have seen loose PSUs for Model 2 and for Model 1 but different from the one my VA0.5 board uses.)
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s8n
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by s8n »

try the below they may know where you can pick one up , also you can try asking over there about your reset problem they know a lot about Saturns.


http://segasaturngroup.proboards.com/


i remember GameDoctorHK having them and Sega Style Store , but one is sold out and the other is offline
SceptreJLRB
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by SceptreJLRB »

Thanks for your kind help, s8n!

Yeah, I also asked about my problem at that community and at all the Saturn-related sites I've found. :mrgreen:
Let's see if finally I get some luck...
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marurun
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by marurun »

Do you have a mod chip or region switch installed? I have a chipped Saturn and it sometimes demonstrates odd behavior.
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SceptreJLRB
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Re: Sega Saturn in-game resetting problem

Post by SceptreJLRB »

No, not at all. That console is virgin, pure & crystalline. Virtually pristine! :D

Well, finally I ended up selling the console as a defectuous unit, and got a wonderful Japanese Model 2A as a replacement. It's the coward solution, but just got rid of the problem... 8)
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